7.31.2011

Sunday, July 31 (Oslo, Norway)

It was søøøøøøøø (emphasis and wrong character intended) waking up in Ingrid's room.  We grabbed chocolate buns and apple at the gas station to eat on the way into town.  Today we visited the National Gallery and saw their entire collection of Picasso, Van Gogh, Monet, and of course Edvard Munch (there is also a separate Munch museum we didn't see).  Munch's expressionist paintings were very evocative- the ones that stuck with me were 'The Dance of Life' and 'Cabbage Farmer.'  'The Scream' was of course the most popular.  The other big collection was Norwegian Romanticism, with large scale scenes of nature: fjords, forest, and ocean.





Next was the city center to find lunch; Jambo turned out to be the worst fifty dollar Chinese meal we could have imagined.

We bought the Oslo Pass and walked to the Opera House.  The building is designed to look like an iceberg that sinks right into the water.  The sloped roofs make it possible to walk all the way up and around for a great view of the harbor.  The building was full of people relaxing, reading and sleeping on the white Italian marble (Carerra?)  Oddgeir said that some Norwegians think it strange that the building was not built from plentiful Norwegian granite.  The view from the harbor was full of cruise ships and construction.  Apparently the National Library and other museums will be moved there, the whole project scheduled for completion in 2020.  About 50 meters away in the Oslofjord is an even more iceberglike sculpture made of metal and glass.



Off to Akershus, Norway's medieval 13th century fortress and remodeled in the Renaissance style in the 17th century.  The ballrooms and halls are still used for state events; it is not a residence anymore.  The castle houses many museums, and we saw the Norwegian Resistance Museum and the Armed Forces Museum, both inside Akershus.

The Resistance Museum had documents, artifacts and models from the 5-year German occupation in Norway.  It was considered an important location for both Germany and the Allied forces.  The initial attack was by complete surprise from almost all ports and important cities.  The king narrowly escaped and the leader of the Norwegian Nazi Party claimed a sort of power over the country, albeit very unpopular.  We couldn't read most of the newspaper articles and posters but some original materials were in English later on in the war.  The Nazi Party systematically took away Norwegian access to the press, the radio, and meeting in groups of more than three.  The most interesting part was the secret ways they distributed their messages-- through fake table legs, compartments in fish crates and hollow loaves of bread, and secret broadcasts.  They had many examples of the ways the Resistance could receive radio signals- irons, suitcases, and even a prisoner's false teeth were wired to get the messages.

I couldn't tell you anything about the Armed Forces museum.  We dragged ourselves through to get our money's worth.

We watched the changing of the guard at the palace while we ate our dinner on a shady bench.  Many Norwegians were lounging, napping and hanging out on the lawns.  The guards who stood in the little post had long black ponytail plumes on one side of their hats, and therefore had to turn their necks fully from right to left.  There was definitely a little menacing guard-glare in their eyes, too.

Why not make it a full day?  Vigeland Park was next, Norway's central garden lined with sculptures from Norway's sculpture laureate.  His body of work was incredible; large bronze sculptures of mainly two figures, male and female, adults and children, in every manner of position.



The three main parts of the park were set up in a line.  Statues lining both sides of a bridge; fountain with huge figures holding up the big bowl of water; and a tall sort of totem pole of characters mashed in to each other.  Iron gates, gardens, pools, and steps separated each section.  Again, the Norwegians were using their public spaces-- lounging, grilling, on dates, and running.

We were on our feet a lot today-- Nuts, Coronas, and TV.
Forgot my camera while we were out today, so these are the only pictures I have from the day...

 

7.30.2011

Saturday, July 30 (Grimstad to Oslo, Norway)

After a terrible 5 hour bus ride, we arrived.  Oslo was immediately different- bustling and diverse and hot.  Our route to Røa was thwarted of course by construction and security from the bombing.  We made it to the hardware store where Kristin, Ingrid's sister, works.  She passed off the keys and some tips to navigating the area and we set off for 33 Aslakveien.  I didn't read her first email carefully enough because I didn't know which apartment or which floor was hers.  I had to knock on every unmarked door until the 4th floor.  Her apartment is absolutely beautiful- potted ivy, lavender, and orchids are everywhere.  The picture windows in the dining room and bedroom look into the Oslo hills to Holmenkollen (huge ski jump).  Every single thing has its place.

We played Nuts (getting closer now to our 1000 point mark), and got ready to go out to Grønerløkken for dinner, an area called Oslo's Greenwich Village.  On the subway, a Irish guy commented on my Claddaugh ring and suggested we go for beers to place called 'Rees' which serves three beers for 100 Nkr.  We actually found it without really trying- a shady spot near the park called 'Ryes.'  It seemed a local restaurant; Norwegians were on dates or hanging out with friends.  More Nuts.  Bed.

7.29.2011

Friday, July 29 (Grimstad, Norway)

Our extra day in Grimstad!
Watchtower for an extra super view of Grimstad!

Old church (name coming) built in 800 A.D.

Thomas the doubter!

Assigned seats
Famous Grimstad lunch
Famous Grimstad treat, iced coffee (is kaffe)


Tuva!

Beach again.


Sunset at Kaare's BBQ

Getting mini Norwegian lessons and tips on what to do in Oslo

7.28.2011

Thursday, July 28 (Stavanger, Norway)

It was a hot morning that got started with a late 9:30 breakfast.  There was not a cloud in the sky (hence the beginnings of my sunburn) and we sat out on the deck nearly until lunch as we waited for Lars Erik and Karianne.  We walked down the lane to the site of their new home.  Anna's parents had a house on that lot and Lars paid the Stavanger fire department (about 35,000 Norwegian kroner) to burn it down.  Cheaper than tearing it down and disposing of all the pieces, he said.  Lars is building it in his free time after work as a contractor.

Morning time at the new house.

View of the future living room

Grandpa Lars, Tuva, and Lars Erik

When Lars Erik and Karianne arrived we made plans to go to the beach, a saltwater inlet of the ocean.  We swam in the cold water and had pretzels, cookies, coffee (always coffee), and ice cream.  The weather was perfect, warm and breezy.



 
LE showed us around the cobblestone streets of Grimstad with pride.  A BBQ dinner was ready to go at the site of the new house- salmon, chicken, pork, sausages, hot dogs, salads, potatoes, chips, and beer.  We again got on the subject of politics and government with Anna's brother.  The money from oil that the Norwegian government found 40 years ago has ensured the strength of their social democracy.  It is incredible to me that the oil and revenue from it landed totally in the hands of the government and not a private company.  Their 500 billion in the bank is expected to grow into much more, creating security for years to come.

Childhood friends of LE took us on his boat for an evening swim.  We rode in a small plastic speedboat through reedy canals and more Minnesota-looking lakes past beautiful cottages.  The destination was a favorite jumping rock.  I jumped once, Paul twice, off the nine meter cliff.

Path down to the boat.





Karianne, Cora, Lars Erik, Paul




A definite highlight came next, when Cora took us to his father's brewery, Nøgne Ø (Naked Island) in the site of an old power plant.  Cora took us for a private after-hours showing and walked us through the whole process, from barley roasting to boiling and fermenting.  We tried maybe seven types of bottled beer and also a batch that had just begun to ferment.  The beer was very very flavorful and had even won a few international awards.  Cora (who also works in a brewery) was very interested in the beers we might have tried in Eugene, known for its craft beers.  Some of the Nøgne Ø beers make it to a distributor in Boston, but 70% of the beer stays in Norway.




Beer straight from the proverbial teat.

 

7.27.2011

Wednesday, July 27 (Stavanger to Grimstad, Norway)

Slept in til 8:45, showered, breakfast, packed, looked at Anna's wedding pictures online, checked out, walked to town, bought a memory card, made it to the bus station, on to sunny Grimstad!
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The weather is between 20-25 degrees C.  Bridges high above fjord after fjord give way to arched tunnels directly into the mountains.  We arrived at the bus station in Grimstad and stopped at the McDonalds to eat our leftovers.  The current meal special of a burger with fried onions, fries, and a drink cost 99 Kr.  $20.00.  Maybe their government tries to discourage them from eating it??


Saab nostalgia.
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We started walking toward town, guessing where the water might be, and hoping we'd find the tourist office without a map.  We did!  Yay.  Vestre Grom 16 led us down a short country lane and into a neighborhood of small but detailed houses.  16 was a red 1.5 story house with the door open, shoes, spilling out of the entryway, and voices coming from upstairs.  We knocked on the door and called out to Karianna's mother-in-law, Anna.  She came down with her husband Lars, her brother Oyvinde, and his two daughters Caroline and Matilde.  
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We set up our tent in Anna's other brother's yard (they are renting the garage and guesthouse from the people who bought their house as they build a new one a hundred yards away, whewww).  We had hardly started before his wife was trying to shoo us away, speaking in Norwegian to us.  Anna came to explain that we weren't strangers camping on their property.

Fireweed and wild roses are everywhere!

7.26.2011

Tuesday, July 26 (Stavanger, Norway)



Our journey to Lysefjord included a short walk up to the bus stop, which took us to the ferry in Stavanger, which took us to the harbor in Tau, and where we jumped on a bus to Preikestolen Park.  The hike reminded me of the portages into Tuscarora or Lake of the Sky, and except for the sheer elevation (640 m), was full of Minnesota familiarities.  The trail was packed, Paul and I bounded up like bunnies to each resting point and beyond, promising to slow down and take it all in on the way down.

Views from the way up.


Plentiful hikers with sticks.
The first view of Pulpit Rock
We reached the rock in about 1.5 hours and had our lunch a little too close to the edge, in my opinion.  I found it absolutely tortuous to watch others hanging their feet or their cameras or their shoulders over the edge.  The rock really did look like a pulpit preaching down the Lysefjord.  Paul saw the ferry in the water waaaaaaay far below and took a picture over the edge (I didn't look).  The return trek took one hour, and we waited with a crossword at the bus station before jumping on the earlier bus of another company.

Over the edge
Paul's look.

Marie's look.
On the way down.
We bought dinner ingredients, 2 Aass beers, and made it back for a happy hour in our room.  An $8 sauna and shower from the pool down the lake trail was kind of worth it.  :)  We made eggs and potatoes in the small hostel kitchen.  Norwegians must not use garlic often, ours wasn't fresh.  Viktor, a student-employee of the hostel, came to chat with us.  Turns out he was an exchange student in Iowa City.  He was so nice and snuck butter, salt, and pepper out of the staff kitchen.  Lots of Nuts later (I briefly caught up) and then bedtime.